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Need to make a profit? All in good time

Need to make a profit? All in good time



If you'd prefer to invest in something that is practical and looks good, why not put your money into something timeless - a fine watch? At the very top end, a rare Patek Philippe can set you back more than you'd pay for a three-bed detached house in Reading.

However, for those with a more modest £500-£5,000, watches have been offering well-timed returns.

Paul Maudsley, head of watches at auctioneer Bonhams, says the sector has been going through something of a renaissance and, as a result, prices are ticking up.

"A few years ago, if you said at a dinner party you sold watches for a living no one was interested.

"Now everyone wants to talk about watches - and more importantly they are buying them. Our most recent fine watch sale in June was particularly successful, and the signs for future prices are good."

He says a client who bought a Rolex GMT-Master last year for £5,500 has just sold it for £11,000. Sports, military and chronograph watches are all sought after.

"As with all investments, you have to do your research and study the market. If you buy wisely you should be rewarded with a very solid return."

He cites the example of the Rolex Submariner that would have sold for around £200 brand new in 1972 - not an inconsiderable sum back then. These, he says, now sell for between £10,000 and £15,000, depending on condition.

John Matheou, founder of the Swiss Watch Company (watches.co.uk).....continued below

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and a dealer for some 14 years, agrees the market is buoyant. "The credit crunch doesn't seem to have affected us. Fine watches are very fashionable and we've never been busier. Prices for some watches have doubled in the past 12 months and, like other markets where there is only a limited number available, prices have to go up."

Overall, the general advice is to seek used (pre-owned) models if buying for investment purposes - watches like cars depreciate a huge amount as soon as you first wear them.

Reports of watches being sold by smart Bond Street stores for £21,000 and being worth £5,000 a year later are not uncommon - making them, at that later stage, an excellent investment.

In practice, the big-brand names hold their value best. Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, Vacheron Constantin and Breguet are good bets, while watches from fashion labels are viewed as costume jewellery, and as such should be avoided.

So what should those with a few thousand, or a few hundred pounds, put their money into?

John Matheou thinks the Panerai Radiomir is the best place for those with £6,000-£7,000 to invest - he's just bought one for his recently born son and expects it to be worth £20,000-£30,000 by the time he's 18.

"Failing that, you can't go wrong with Rolexes which are perennially popular with male buyers," he says.

"If you are looking to spend just £500-£700 I would go for an early 1970s Omega," says Paul Maudsley. "Omega has just set up its own vintage shop in the Burlington Arcade (in Mayfair) and prices are expected to rise.

"Buy something you like and wear it for a few years. If you take it for a service and overhaul, it will be back to its original condition - and worth a bit more than you paid for it."

· Bonhams' next general watch sale is on September 16 - its next fine watch sale is on December 11.

m.brignall@guardian.co.uk

The collector

It was putting a treasured watch in the washing machine some 18 years ago that kick-started my interest in collecting timepieces, writes Rory Brogan. My grandfather's rose-gold Rolco (an early Rolex) didn't survive the cotton wash cycle in the pocket of my jeans, but a mixture of guilt and the need to replace it sparked off an enthusiasm bordering on obsession.

I never did buy a replacement Rolco, but spent plenty of time mulling over vintage pieces at Antiquorum on London's Kings Road before going on to buy a number of vintage chronographs.

Among these were a Breitling Top Time, a 1960s Omega with a nicely aged dial and a Breitling Navitimer that needed some touch-up work. It's not a cheap hobby. I paid nearly £700 for a Navitimer 10 years ago. But it has proved profitable: it's now worth around £2,000. However, this is nothing compared to the rise in value in recent years of a watch associated with Steve McQueen: the orange-handed Rolex 1655 (aka Explorer II). An early 1970s design for speleologists (cave explorers), it wasn't popular and was discontinued, thus making it particularly sought after. Four years ago it was selling for around £3,500. Today you'd have to pay £10,000.

I then dabbled in the new-watch market and a Tag Heuer Monza and limited edition Monaco followed. But I've been forced to take a break from my hobby. Accumulated debts and a partner who impressed upon me the merits of a new bathroom, saw to that.

Nonetheless, my research continues and I could easily be tempted back by an early Omega Speedmaster, a recently discontinued Rolex Seadweller, pre-upgrade Rolex GMT or a Panerai. Anyway, I tell myself that in a volatile stock market, a carefully chosen wristwatch will bring a good deal more pleasure than monitoring falling share prices.

I've learned from my mistakes. If it's cheap, there's probably a good reason - a Breitling I purchased on eBay was a mishmash, suitable only for parts. Restoring watches is expensive and I wish I'd limited myself to a few investment-grade pieces, complete with boxes and papers. And the most important lesson? Give your pockets a thorough check before you put your jeans in the wash.

· This article was amended on Tuesday July 8 2008.

guardian.co.uk © Guardian Newspapers Limited 2008

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